For those who want a full-bodied red packing a lot of flavour, this is it: the wine is so rich that it is almost like drinking black liquorice.

Starling Lane is a tiny winery on the Saanich Peninsula,  based on a bucolic farm that was carved from the forest in the 1860s by Judge Matthew Baillie Begby, the so-called Hanging Judge. Today, it is owned by Victoria radiologist John Wrinch and his wife, Jacqueline, and is such a pretty site that many summer weddings take place here. Wrinch, Starling Lane’s winemaker, and his wife comprise two of the six partners in this winery. The others are Jerry and Sherry Mussio and Sue and Ken Houston. Each owns a small (two acres or less) vineyard on the Saanich Peninsula. Two years ago, they started pooling their grapes and resources to launch one of Vancouver Island’s best little wineries.

Each grows Maréchal Foch grapes. This durable French hybrid matures well during Vancouver Island’s relatively short season, producing bold reds. This is one of the boldest, almost black in colour with flavours of prunes and plums set against good oak and vanilla notes. A generous and satisfying wine. 88