For its summer-long series of concerts in the winery’s amphitheatre, Tinhorn Creek Vineyards has scored a real coup this year. The star performer there in September 13 is Lisa Brokop, a great favourite among country music fans.

What’s the connection to this 2005 Merlot? Like so much of country music, there is a consistent honesty year in and year out to Tinhorn Creek’s regular Merlot. The premium Merlot here, released under the Oldfield’s Collection label, may put on airs but this one is a straight from the shoulder drink. But a bit of advice: to get the best from this bottle, you have to engage in the effete practice of decanting it.

Straight from the bottle, it shows nice berry aromas with a touch of chocolate but, on the palate, it seems a touch lean. It just needs time to open up. I did not decant; I finished the bottle on the second day and found the fruit to be richer, the tannins softer and the wine altogether more satisfying. Remember, this red is bottle under screw cap, so it can use a bit of breathing to come into its own. If you are having it at concert, at least wait until Lisa finishes her first set. 87