Veteran grower Richard Cleave is especially fanatical about managing the vines at his Phantom Creek Vineyard on Black Sage Road. The spring rains in 2006 encouraged Syrah, always a vigorous variety, to set a lot of fruit. It was necessary to cut off 40% of the bunches to avoid overproduction and a mediocre wine.

The sacrifice was well worth it. This is a generous, rich wine, starting with aromas of plums, cherries, roasted coffee and even tar that just explode from the glass. The nose signals the complex array of flavours – more plum and cherry, with hints of spice and pepper. There is a vivacious sweetness to the flavours that is downright sexy. The tannins are long and velvety and the texture is full-bodied. The finish is persistent. 90