Wines that are fit for kings
By John Schreiner
March 11, 2008
I finally have the answer when asked what wine I would take to that proverbial desert island: the mahogany case that houses the Primum Familaie Vini Collection of fine wines.
The PFV, to abbreviate the Latin, is the world’s most exclusive club of family winery owners. So exclusive that the first case was presented in 1995 to the king of Spain; and another case was given a few years later to the Swedish king. On other occasions, cases of PFV wines are offered at charity auctions, usually attracting a value that would buy an entire desert island.
The current 11 members of PFV were recently in Vancouver for several events, including a gala dinner and a tasting of the sort of wines found in the current collection. It was an astonishing tasting of high quality, if expensive, wines. I would estimate that the wines poured at the tasting (two vintages of each) would fetch $10,000 if one could buy them. That tells you what sort of rarified group the PFV is.
The organization came together formally in 1993, with a dozen members – eleven family-owned wineries from Europe and Robert Mondavi from California.
According to PFV literature, they have this in common: “Each family owns vineyard estates, is one of its country’s most prestigious producers, and enjoys an international reputation for its wines.”
The wineries must be family-owned. Three original members resigned after the families giving up control of their wineries: Robert Mondavi, Paul Jaboulet Aîné and Château Cos D’Estournel. Two other producers have replaced the European drop-outs: Perrin & Fils from the Rhone and Tenuta San Guido from Tuscany.
Of course, there are other leading family-owned wineries that would fit the criteria. However, the members think long and hard before inviting someone new, making sure that individual would fit into their tight social and intellectual circle. One member told me of a stellar European winemaker who has not been invited because he is a difficult character.
Currently, there are no members from outside Europe. There are Australian producers that might fit but the other PFV members are not keen on taking on the travel schedule that would involve. California’s most powerful wine family, the Gallos – celebrating their 75th anniversary in wine this year – do not yet have wines with the stellar reputation of, say, Château Mouton Rothschild, one of the original members.
In Canada, Mission Hill Family Estate would love to be invited to join PFV but the Okanagan simply lacks the necessary profile as a fine wine region.
The PFV members get to together to share technical information, to promote each other’s wines and image and just to enjoy each other’s company. Each member sends his wines at Christmas to the other members, surely one of the finer perks of belonging.
The members hold uncompromising views on how to achieve quality wines. During the Vancouver tasting, there was a sharp difference of opinion over whether or not irrigation in vineyards should be made legal in Europe. Sebastiano Rosa of Tenuta San Guido (producer of Sassicaia), and Miguel Torres Jr. from Spain, suggested that climate change would require vineyard irrigation. “The main point is to make the best wine available,” Torres said.
Laurent Drouhin of Burgundy’s Joseph Drouhin winery immediately stomped this idea. The fundamental principle in wine growing is terroir, he insisted. “If you irrigate, you are altering the terroir,” he argued.
While it sounds as if it would take a couple of years of drought to bring him around, such purist attitudes drive the high quality winemaking that unites this group.
These were the top wines the PFV members showed at the Vancouver tasting, with B.C. prices unless otherwise stated:
* Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, vintages 1998, 1988. At 20 years, the older vintage is just peaking. The 1998 is $210 in Quebec.
* Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche, vintages 2004 and 1992. Current release sells for $88. Elegant white Burgundy.
* Antinori Solaia, vintages 2004, 1999. A powerful red made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and about 20% Sangiovese. Current release sells for $170.
* Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2004 and 1999. This winery was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in Tuscany. The first 20 vintages – until the wine was commercialized in 1968 – were consumed by the family. Lucky family. It now sells for $159.
* Torres Mas La Plana 2003, 1997. A top Cabernet from Spain and, at $50, one of the best values in the PFV portfolio.
* Vega Sicilia Unico 1996, 1989. Legendary red from Spain. The 1995 vintage lists here for $431.00
* Perrin Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 2005, 1990. Big, long-lived Rhone red. $90 in Ontario.
* Château Mouton 1998, 1986. An iconic Bordeaux red. The 2004 vintage is listed here for $350.
* Egon Müller Scharzhof Auslese Goldkapsel 2005, 1990. A botrytized dessert wine with a finish that never ends. One of the stars of this outstanding tasting. The 2005 is $439 a bottle in Ontario.
* Hugel & Fils Gewürztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles 2002, 1996. Another great dessert wine from one of the leading Alsace wine families. The 2001 is $70 in Ontario.
* Symington Family Estates, represented by two ports, Quinta do Vesuvio 2005 and Graham’s 1980. The current vintage of Vesuvio is listed here at $75. The current release of 2003 Graham’s is about $80.
What makes these wines especially notable is their individuality. Each wine makes its own statement to celebrate family craftsmanship, a fine antidote to the wine industry’s corporate homogeneity. It also comes with a price. It would help to be a king.
John Schreiner is author of The Wineries of British Columbia.
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