Australia wineries are returning for another Canadian tour
By John Schreiner
August 21, 2007
The huge success of Australian wine in export markets comes with an Achilles’ heel: because so much of the volume depends upon [yellow tail]® and clones, there is a perception that Australian wine is boring.
That is a ridiculous notion, but if that is what you think, get a ticket for one of the four Wine Australia tastings next month, featuring about 250 wines. They start in Vancouver on September 18, followed by Calgary September 20, Toronto September 25 and Montreal September 27. For details, check out www.wineaustralia.com.
Let me start with a word on [yellow tail]®. I don’t have a problem with that brand. The wines are incredibly consistent; they taste good and they are affordable for everyday consumption. That is nothing to sneer at, but if you want to be a snob, be my guest.
If you are a [yellow tail]® consumer but with some curiosity, take a little time to explore what else Australia has to offer. I guarantee you will be surprised and pleased.
To whet our appetites, Wine Australia recent did a preview tasting of representative wines. I came away with notes on 37 wines and I was far from bored.
The Australians know that there is a danger that the brands with a homogeneous profile can obscure the regional differences. Consequently, there is a conscious effort in this coming tasting to celebrate the regions and let you compare.
Take Cabernet Sauvignon, as an example. One of Australia’s most distinctive regions for this wine is Coonawarra, represented in the preview tasting by two wines, Parker Terra Rosa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($33) and Rymill The Yearling Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($17). Both show the minty, eucalyptus aroma and flavour so typical of Coonawarra.
These are good wines but I preferred the Ringbolt Margaret River 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), a riper, richer wine with aromas and flavours of spicy plums.
Your tastes will vary. The point is that these are not lookalike reds but rather wines, when compared, that spark interesting discussion.
Shiraz is Australia’s signature red variety, with plenty of regional difference. My top scores went to Barossa Valley wines, including two 90 pointers: Grant Burge Filsell Shiraz 2004 ($35) and Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz 2004 ($25). Both are rich, concentrated and satisfying wines, with the dark plum, leather and spice typical of Barossa Shiraz.
But terrific Shiraz comes from many regions, including the cooler Yarra Valley. There was a stunning example from DeBortoli, a 2005 Shiraz Viognier ($39) which was wonderfully peppery. It is not unusual to find a dash of Viognier, a white variety, blended into Shiraz, both to lift the aroma and to fix the colour.
Look to the Yarra Valley for solid Pinot Noirs, a variety that was not always Australia’s strongest suit until the growers planted in cooler regions like this (or Tasmania). Yering Station Pinot Noir 2006 ($23) is a lovely, bright wine with sweet cherry flavours and lovely silky textures. One seldom finds quality Pinot Noir at this price.
Viognier usually is used for good white wines. The Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2005 ($18) is a bold white, with lots of oak lifting the rich fruit flavours. Far from a boring wine, it comes across almost as too dramatic. A terrific wine for the price.
When it comes to Chardonnay, an Australia benchmark is still Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2004 ($36), somewhat Burgundian in style, with good but not overpowering oak, and with flavours and a texture that are sculptured in their discipline.
Australia does well with lesser known whites. The D’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne 2005 ($22) is a 70%/30% blend of those varieties. It is a crisp wine with flavours of melon and apple and minerals.
Best value white of the tasting was Lindemans Reserve Verdelho 2005 ($14), with aromas and flavours of lime, grapefruit, minerals and honey, but with a crisp, dry finish.
Boring wine? I hardly think so.
goodgrog@shaw.ca
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