Seven Stones is the newest Similkameen Winery
By John Schreiner
May 20, 2007
The Similkameen Valley has become a more compelling wine tour destination this spring with the opening during the May long weekend of the Seven Stones Winery. That brings the number of wineries to six, with a seventh due to open next year.
As well, a new seven-room inn and restaurant has just been opened by Crowsnest Vineyards, adding some sorely needed quality accommodation in the Similkameen. After touring all the wineries, one might reasonably want to sleep it off before heading over the Richter Pass into the Okanagan.
The wineries, starting in Keremeos and heading south on Highway 3, are:
* St. Laszlo Vineyards, the valley’s original winery. It opened in 1984.
* Orofino Vineyards, Canada’s only straw bale winery, with superb wines.
* Crowsnest Vineyards, which opened in 1995 and is now the valley’s largest.
* Herder Winery & Vineyards, which has attained cult status since opening in 2004
* Seven Stones Winery
* Forbidden Fruit Winery, a superb fruit winery tucked away at the south end of the valley, almost at the U.S. border.
Compared with many Okanagan wineries, these all are small producers. Seven Stones, as an example, made only 1,800 cases of wine in 2006 and less in earlier vintages. With small wineries, it is always a good idea to make an appointment to ensure that the tastings rooms are open and have wine.
The plus of small wineries is visitors usually are greeted by the owners. Who better to communicate the dreams behind the wineries than the owners?
At Seven Stones, the owners are George and Vivianne Hanson. The dream began with George Hanson, a former manager in the Yukon’s telephone company before a staff downsizing there liberated him to grow grapes and make wine. Hanson, who turns 50 this year, had planned to retire at 55 before becoming a winegrower. The telephone company’s golden handshake gave him a head start.
I
n 1999, while looking for vineyard land, he chanced upon a hayfield beside Highway 3 just as the owner put up the for-sale sign. With two wineries snapping at his heels, he quickly bought the property. Beginning the following year, he planted 17 acres of grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with some Petit Verdot added recently).
A small volume of Meritage, just released by the winery, was produced in 2003 from Hanson’s first harvest. He sold all of his grapes in 2004 and most in 2005, leaving winery plans on hold while building a house for Vivianne, his new bride.
A herbalist and the former owner of a Prince George health foods store, Vivianne has shrewd marketing skills that complement George’s quickly-learned abilities as a grape grower. He calls his vineyard Harmony One because he sees a parallel between conducting an orchestra and managing grape vines. That was the working title for the winery until Vivianne came up with the more resonant name, Seven Stones.
Throughout the Similkameen Valley, there are boulders as large as houses. The seven most prominent boulders have special significance among the First Nations people. The Hansons have picked up on this, and on the stories behind the major stones, for the winery name as well as for the wine labels. Speaking Rock is featured on the debut labels.
Helped by consulting wine makers, the Hansons are opening with six wines, with two – a 2006 rosé and a 2005 Cabernet Merlot due to be released later in the season. Currently available, but likely to sell out quickly, are:
Chardonnay 2005 ($24.99) This is Hanson’s first medal-winning wine, a gold at the 2007 All-Canadian Wine Championships. There’s a bit of irony in that. George only planted a few acres of Chardonnay in his red-dominated vineyard just so he could offer a white in the tasting room. Some 150 cases were made in 2005. Light gold in colour, the wine has aromas of citrus fruits. On the richly-textured palate, flavours of tangerine, lime and pineapple are set on the lightly toasted note from the barrels. With only half the wine put through malolactic fermentation, the wine is vividly fresh on the finish. 89
Pinot Noir 2005 ($24.99). Only 68 cases of this delicious wine were made. Lovely even to look at, the wine’s aromas are pure fruit, hints of strawberries and cherries that carry through to the flavours. The texture is voluptuous and silky at the same time. The spicy finish is persistent. 88
Syrah 2005 ($34.99). Some 44 cases made. This wine has that classic meaty aroma of Syrah, with peppery flavours of prunes and plums. 88
Meritage 2003 ($29.99) This wine is 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. It is remarkably tight for a four-year-old wine, clearly built to age. It has aromas of red currants, chocolates and cigar box, with more currant and chocolate on the palate. The wine definitely should be decanted before serving, allowing the tannins to mellow. 86
The winery’s website is www.sevenstones.ca.
goodgrog@shaw.ca
|
