The Okanagan's super 2005 wines
By John Schreiner
May 10, 2006
Numerous recent tastings of just-released 2005 white wines from the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys have convinced me that this is the best vintage ever for white wines and rosés – and quite possibly, for reds.
Few reds have yet been released, although most barrel samples are encouraging. But most of the whites and rosé wines are now in the market.
They are superb. Even producers of middling talent pulled off first rate wines last year; the leading producers made world ranking wines. Stock up now, because supplies are limited.
Here is why the wines are better than ever:
* Last spring, there was rain during flowering. That reduced the subsequent crop on most vines, anywhere from 10% to 50%, depending on the vineyard. So the vines went through the rest of the season – a fine, even growing year – with a reduced crop load. Consequently, the fruit that did grow was more intense in flavour and aroma. The weather conditions preserved those flavours, along with bright acidity.
* Coincidentally, the Okanagan’s relatively young vines now are reaching optimum age for producing good fruit.
* Wineries are benefiting from recent investments in better equipment, while an extra year of experience has benefited winemakers.
* More and more wineries have switched to screw cap closures, better preserving the superb flavours and aromas in the 2005 wines.
In short, everything lined up to produce what surely is the best vintage ever in the Okanagan and Similkameen.
Here is a short selection of recently tasted wines that are outstanding:
+ Nk’Mip Cellars Pinot Blanc 2005: The wine starts with apple and melon aromas, which is reflected in the flavour as well. The finish is crisp and ever so refreshing. 90.
+ Nk’Mip Cellars Riesling 2005: Fresh and zesty, this wine has lively lemon and lime flavours, with a clean, crisp and dry finish. 90
+ Nk’Mip Cellars Syrah 2005 (barrel sample): With spicy, meaty aromas, this big, brawling wine has flavours of plums and liquorice, with spice on the finish. 90
+ Nk’Mip Cellars Riesling Icewine 2005: Fruity aromas explode from the glass. The flavours recall ripe pineapples. The racy acidity gives the wine superb balance and a very long finish. 95
+ Burrowing Owl Winery Pinot Gris 2005: This is perhaps the winery’s signature white – and what a signature this vintage! Big and rich, with flavours of pears and melons and a crisp, slightly spicy finish. 90
+ Le Vieux Pin Pinot Noir 2005 (barrel sample): This Oliver winery will open in early summer, with superb wines. This wine is a big, brooding Pinot Noir, dark in colour, with spice and herbs (basil) on the nose and flavours of black cherries and plums. 88
+ Le Vieux Pin Apogée 2005 : This is the winery’s premium (they like to call it hedonistic) Merlot, selling for $65 when released. It is a big, plump red, with great concentration – flavours of ripe plums, black cherries, chocolate and long, ripe tannins. 92
+ Blasted Church Pinot Gris 2005: A delightful wine, with good texture on the palate, aromas of peaches, flavours of citrus and pears. The finish is fresh and crisp. 88
+ Blasted Church Chardonnay Musqué 2005: Textbook example of an aromatic, unoaked white wine, with a big, tropical aroma and flavours of sweet, intense fruit (papaya, mango), with a dry finish. 89-90
+ Blasted Church Hatfield’s Fuse 2005: This is the winery’s best-selling white blend. It is a medley of aromatic varieties, very fruity with flavours of peaches and citrus. The Riesling in the blend gives it a crisp backbone. 89
+ Wild Goose God’s Mountain Vineyard Riesling 2005: This is refreshing, zesty Riesling with lovely aromas and flavours of lime and minerals, and a dry finish. 90
+ Wild Goose Mystic River Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2005: Close your eyes and you are in Alsace, with a dry wine that smells of orange peels and marmalade and is rich and spicy on the palate. 90
+ Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc Limited Release 2005: Starting with aromas of flower blossoms, honey, lime and cantaloupe, this crisp, fruity white presents layers and layers of fruit flavours. 88
+ Quails’ Gate Dry Riesling Limited Release 2005: The wine has aromas and flavours of limes, with a fine steely backbone of minerals and fresh acidity, and a dry finish. 89
+ Quails’ Gate Riesling Icewine 2005: The wine begins with aromas of pineapples and honey, notes that continue in the flavours. There is good acidity, giving the wine a fresh and balanced finished. 89
+ CedarCreek Ehrenfelser 2005: This wine is flying off the shelves. The aromas of grapefruit practically push the cork from the bottle. On the palate, it is lively, fruity, racy, with just enough sweetness on the finish to please all crowds, but not so much that it cannot be enjoyed with food (think Thai). 90
+ Orofino Pinot Gris 2005: This may be one of the best of the 2005 Pinot Gris wines – it has a lovely, inviting aroma, with flavours of citrus, apples and pears and a persistent dry but fruity finish. 90.
I have notes on many more 2005 white wines, seldom scoring any lower than 85. Let me repeat: I think these are the best wines so far from the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys.
Please email me some of your discoveries.
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goodgrog@shaw.ca
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