Naramata Bench wineries roll out their new releases
By John Schreiner
April 19, 2006
Since 1990, when the first two wineries opened there, the Naramata Bench has become one of the most desirable pieces of winery real estate in the Okanagan.
Currently, there are 16 wineries operating along or just off the Naramata Road, an average of one winery for each kilometre from Penticton to Naramata. At least six others are under development.
Recognizing they have something special here, the wineries several years ago formed an association to promote their tight little region. This week, the Naramata Bench Wineries held another sold-out tasting, their third annual, in Vancouver.
Judging from the quality of the wines on display, they certainly have something to crow about.
For many wine tourists, Naramata Road is their number one destination in the Okanagan. No where else can you cover as many wineries with as little time spent driving. Some people tour by bicycle. Sal D’Angelo, who will open D’Angelo Vineyards this fall, says that there are five wineries within walking distance from his bed-and-breakfast. For most people, that is a day’s worth of touring and tasting.
One of those wineries is Niva and Jeff Martin’s La Frenz Winery which had some of the most interesting wines at this week’s Naramata Bench release.
The La Frenz 2005 Sauvignon Blanc “Small Lots” ($19) – so-called because only 60 cases are available – is a fresh, zippy white with tangy and intense aromas and flavours of sweet grapefruit and gooseberry. My score: 90.
Other notable La Frenz wines:
* 2005 Riesling “Small Lots ($19). A fresh white with lively flavours of lemons and limes, and with a dry finish. 90.
* Liqueur Muscat N.V. ($20 for a 375 ml bottle). Strawberry blonde in hue, this is a sensuously textured dessert wine with a palate of sweet, fruity marmalade flavours. It is modelled on the famous liqueur Muscats made in Australia, where Martin grew up. 91.
* Viognier 2005 ($19). Generously plump in texture, this wine has flavours of sweet melons but finishes nicely dry. 89.
* Alexandria 2005 ($18). La Frenz’s proprietary aromatic blend, this wine is both floral and spicy, with fresh fruit flavours and slightly off-dry finish – perfect for summer drinking. 88.
* Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($25) Ripe and full, this wine has flavours of cherries, plums, vanilla and chocolate. 88.
Other standout wines from the Naramata Bench included:
* Poplar Grove Pinot Gris 2005 ($21.90). There was a noticeable buzz in the room about this white, a wine remarkable for its spicy freshness and sweet pear flavours. 90.
* Poplar Grove Benchmark Cabernet Franc 2003 ($39.90). Poplar Grove wine maker Ian Sutherland arguably makes the best Cabernet France in the Okanagan. This is a bold, concentrated red, tasting of cassis, spiced plums, prunes and chocolate. 90
* Nichol Vineyard Syrah Reservare 2003 ($35). I have no idea why the winery has Latinized reserve, but the wine is excellent, with classic notes of leather, black pepper, plums and even a hint of cherry. 89
* Township 7 Chardonnay Reserve 2004 ($25). Well-priced for a reserve tier Chardonnay, this mouthfilling wine tastes of peaches and sweet grapefruit set against the toasty vanilla of good barrels. 89.
* Van Westen Vineyards Viognier 2005. This is one of the newest wineries on the bench. The Viognier was a barrel sample that promises to blossom into a fine wine on release: crisp, zesty with green melon flavours. 88.
* Therapy Vineyards Pink Freud 2005. Also not yet released, this is juicy Merlot rosé with flavours of strawberry and raspberry, and a dry finish. Another perfect summer wine with a label that has fun with the winery’s bow to psychoanalysis. 88.
* Red Rooster Merlot Grand Reserve 2003 ($29.90). A bold red, with a concentrated, chewy texture and flavours of blackberries, plums, currants and oak. Suitable for cellaring. 88.
* Hillside Riesling 2005 ($NA). Just bottled, this is a juicy mouthful of lime and grapefruit flavours. It was still showing some bottle shock but will develop added elegance with another month on the bottle. 87.
* Lake Breeze Sémillon 2005 ($16.90). Year in and year out, this is one of the Okanagan’s best Sémillons – fresh, zesty, with notes of gooseberry and grapefruit. Good wine with seafood. 88.
* Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Pinot Noir 2003 ($23.90). Full-bodied, this is a wine with ripe plums and cherry flavours, a touch of mocha and some of that elusive character that wine geeks call “barnyard” and the rest of us call tasty. 88.
* Lake Breeze Seven Poplars Pinotage 2004 ($23.90). The only Canadian Pinotage (so far), this tasty red is redolent with spicy black cherries and a hint of mocha. 90.
* Laughing Stock Portfolio 2004 ($35 if order now, $37 on release this fall). The winery’s flagship red, this is a blend of 55/35/10 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc. The barrel sample is spicy, with concentrated flavours of plums, currants, tobacco, chocolate. 89 with potential of a higher score when the wine is released.
* Laughing Stock Pinot Noir 2004 ($24.90). Only 75 cases are available of a wine made by Laughing Stock’s David Enns in collaboration with Paul Gardner of Pentâge. They’re a super team. The wine has aromas and flavours of strawberries and the lovely silky texture so often found with this variety. 89.
* Kettle Valley Gamay 2005 ($25). There was only time at the end of the tasting to sample one wine from this excellent producer. The Gamay did not disappoint, with its concentrated spicy fruit flavours. 89.
goodgrog@shaw.ca
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