Blue Mountain shows off its new releases
By John Schreiner
April 3, 2006
Is there any point reviewing the wines of Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars?
After all, this Okanagan winery sells all the wines it makes, about 9,000 cases a year, to loyal fans who don’t really need wine writers holding their hands. People who get on the list for Blue Mountain’s wine releases consider themselves fortunate. And many other wineries envy Blue Mountain’s reputation.
But there is a point to reviewing the wines. When the winery is sold out, the only place to find Blue Mountain wines is on restaurant wine lists. Since you pay double the winery’s retail price, you might just appreciate third party opinions.
Recently, Blue Mountain showed off its latest releases at its traditional annual reception in Vancouver (a charity fund raiser done in conjunction with some of the city’s best restaurants). The event coincided with the winery’s spring release. The winery’s web site indicates that most of the wines currently can be ordered directly from the winery. It will not be too long before “sold out” notices appear.
In fact, one of the wines poured at the reception, the Brut Rosé ($27) is shown as being sold out. This is one of the winery’s most popular sparkling wines, a wine with aromas and flavours of strawberries and apples that linger on the palate. The finish is fruity but dry. I rated it 89 points.
Still available, and at a very good price, is the winery’s other sparkling wine, Blue Mountain Brut N.V. ($21.95). This is fresh and crisp, with delicate notes of citrus. It is a clean, uncomplicated sparkling wine that is quite delicious. 90
Blue Mountain’s table wines are offered in two ranges – Cream Label and Stripe Label, which marks the winery’s reserve tier.
The Cream Label Pinot Blanc 2004 ($17.95) is a textbook example of fine Pinot Blanc. The wine has flavours of freshly sliced apples, and, with good acidity, has a crisp, clean finish. 88
The Cream Label Chardonnay 2004 ($19.95) illustrates well the house style that has developed at Blue Mountain. The winery does not make wines with blockbuster fruit or blockbuster oak or blockbuster alcohol. Blue Mountain’s wines are meant to be enjoyed with food, not to upstage food. This Chardonnay is an example of everything in moderation, with an appealing delicacy in the citrus aromas and flavours. The finish is fresh and clean. 88
The Cream Label Pinot Gris 2004 ($19.95) seems to have a little more backbone than the Chardonnay, a touch more toastiness from the lees, with flavours of pears and a crisp finish. 89
The Cream Label Pinot Noir 2004 ($23.95) is a fresh, youthful wine with hints of raspberry and strawberry. At this stage in its development, the wine seems a bit light. Another year in bottle should bring out Pinot Noir’s silky texture, although it won’t add concentration. 87
The Cream Label Gamay Noir 2004 ($19.95) has always been one of Blue Mountain’s better values. This wine is a Beaujolais with structure – lively flavours of plums and cherries and a generous texture. 88
The Stripe Label Chardonnay 2003 ($25) is as subtle as its lower priced mate but shows more concentrated fruit, with flavours of lime. The greater concentration shows up in the wine’s fleshier texture on the palate. A wine of elegance and harmony. 90
The Stripe Label Pinot Gris 2003 ($25) is equally elegant, with fine flavours of fresh pears and anise. Some earlier vintages had struck me as having spent too much time on the lees and lost freshness. Not this wine. It is fresh and fruity and satisfying on the finish. 90
The Stripe Label Pinot Noir 2003 ($33) is the star of this year’s releases. Full-bodied, with flavours of cherry and a good colour, it has the velvet texture of a good Pinot Noir, with a concentration that will allow this wine to develop superbly over the next five years. 92.
goodgrog@shaw.ca
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