Finds at the B.C. Wine and Oyster Festival 2006
By John Schreiner
January 22, 2006
The wine tasting season in Vancouver also gets launched in mid-January with the excellent tasting of wines and oysters, organized by Liberty Wine Merchants.
This is an excellent event at which to go trolling for interesting British Columbia wines, especially since some producers bring along pre-release examples.
This year, I found several particular treasures “under the table” at the Kettle Valley Winery booth. No, I wasn’t under the table. Bob Ferguson, one of the owners of this Naramata winery, occasionally produced the wines. In fact, he probably ran out earlier than expected because I kept sending others to his table to ask for tastes.
One was Kettle Valley’s 2003 Hayman Vineyard Pinot Noir. This is a very pretty wine, with a vibrant colour, a clean aroma and flavour of berries (strawberries, raspberries) and the classic silken texture of Pinot Noir. I scored it 91 points. Keep an eye out for the release of this wine in the next month or two.
Ferguson also poured samples of the Kettle Valley 2003 Reserve Pinot Noir, which I scored 87 but which I believe will score higher with age. Now, it is a black, tightly-structured wine, with concentrated fruit flavours or plum and prunes. If the Hayman is drinking well now, the Reserve will only start coming into its own in three to five years. Kettle Valley Pinot Noirs age well.
The third under the table wine was Kettle Valley’s 2003 McGraw Estate Merlot. This is a big, bold red, with flavours of sweet plums and currants, ripe tannins and a long finish. 89.
Perhaps none of these are meant to be oyster wines (Ferguson had both Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay on the table). However, the guests were more than willing to have a peak at what’s not yet released.
While there were too many wineries in the room for me to sample everything, I did find plenty of other wines that I would recommend:
* Gehringer Brothers Schönburger-Gewürztraminer 2004 ($12.99). This blend of two grapes, both spicy, has created an expressive wine that jumps from the glass with glorious spice. On the palate, there is lots of fruit mingled with cinnamon. The body is light, the finish is crisp and squeaky clean. A steal at the price. 89.
* Gehringer Brothers Dry Rock Vineyards Chardonnay 2003 ($13.99). Another best buy, this crisp and fresh wine has flavours of apples, citrus and a hint of toast, with a lingering not of cloves on the finish. 88
* Sandhill Pinot Blanc 2004 ($15.99). A wine with a buttery texture and hints of oak the meld with sweet apple flavours. It tastes a lot like a Chardonnay but costs a little less. 88
* Sandhill Merlot 2003 ($17.99). Bold and intense, this rich wine has flavours of plum and cherries and vanilla. Chewy Merlot like this made the reputation of Washington wines. Nice to see we can do them in B.C. as well. 89
* Peller Estates Cabernet Franc 2004 ($n.a.) The Peller wines are getting back on the radar screen if this one is any example. It is a generous, fruit-forward red, with plum and berry flavours and soft tannins. 87
* Golden Mile Black Arts Chardonnay 2004 ($34.90). A bit aggressively-priced, this is a full, rich Chardonnay with sweet flavours of grapefruit, apple, cloves and other spice, with a finish that won’t quit. 90
* St. Hubertus 2004 Pinot Blanc Vintner’s Reserve ($12.50) This is a textbook example of a straight-forward Pinot Blanc, crisp and clean, with the taste of green apples. A real oyster wine if there ever was one, and a real value. 87
* St. Hubertus Oak Bay Pinot Meunier 2004 ($15.99). This grape is a cousin or perhaps parent of Pinot Noir and produces somewhat similar wines, though often with less intensity. This is just a lovely bottle, with notes of raspberry and with a supple, silky texture. 87
* Winchester Cellars Pinot Gris 2003 ($18.90). This wine is from a small Vancouver Island winery that sources some Okanagan grapes. This is a muscular Pinot Gris, with ripe pear flavours and a toasty note from the oak. 86
* Garry Oaks Pinot Gris Estate 2004 ($21.95). This impressive Salt Spring Island winery has begun winning medals with its wine. This wine won a silver in a U.S. competition. The wine is lovely and crisp, with fresh pear flavours and a fresh juicy acidity. 88
* Garry Oaks Pinot Noir Estate 2004 ($21.95). With peppery strawberry flavours and a silky texture, this is a lively cool-climate Pinot Noir. I rated this 86 when I tasted a newly-bottled example. I find it has improved with bottle age. 89
* Garry Oaks Labyrinth 2004 (to be released this summer). A blend of 90% Lemberger, 10% Merlot, this is a tasty red, with flavours of peppery cherries and chocolate. 89
* Mt. Boucherie Sémillon Estate Collection 2004 ($13.90) A lively wine with flavours of lime and grapefruit and a tangy finish. 87.
* Crownest Vineyards Barcello Canyon Pinot Noir 2003 ($15.90) Ruby in colour, this win has flavours of raspberries and cherries, a firm structure and a smoky finish. 87.
goodgrog@shaw.ca
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